Ladies Afternoon Wrap # 0291

After a few weeks break I can now start sewing on the VPLL 1912 Project again.

HINT: I now put all my VPLL patterns resealable A4 plastic bags, including my enlarged patten so I can see the pattern image at a glace, I have 2 pattern sizes available to me and all the instructions are kept neatly together

I selected some beautiful fabric and decided to be bold in the fabric colour and beaded trim for the belt and white contrasting tassels. I chose plain gold coloured satin lining.

The next step was to enlarge the 32 inch  pattern to fit a 44 inch with lengthened "sleeves", back width and waist to neck measurement.

I used a slash the paper pattern method and pinned the extra paper between the joins as you can see how it looks on the body form. 

I worked out where to cut the pattern for enlargement so it would minimise alterations for the collar other than length, using commercial patterns as a guide as to whether to alter the pattern. The final paper pattern was checked to fit, and adjusted against the body form adding a belt to see if the waist and slashes aligned.  

I also checked it with my trusty aqua curtain lining fabric by cutting out just one side only to see how it hung for length. I will then use this as my new  paper pattern template by transferring the final enlarged shape to tissue paper. 

WARNING: The #0291 pattern cut out guide has an error. The two front back pieces would cut out so two pieces would be the same side so watch out! They need to be cut out as be mirror images so that the right side of the material is the same on left and right sides


By enlarging the one 'front & back' piece so much, it would then not fit on the lining fabric in one piece, following the grain line guide. Knowing that changing the grainline without consideration of how the lining fabric would fall, I decided to cheat by cutting the shape separately adding the extra fabric on the back sleeve point see left -I'm sure no one will notice.










So here are the pieces all cut out and over locked (serged) but not sewn to show how it will look. The main fabric is actually inside out as I am checking how the main fabric and lining behaves when hung overnight incase they stretch differently.

The contrasting collar is very thin silk cotton and the main fabric is polyester satin. So I have some sewing stretch problems and the fabric is very slippery to sew.

I will add to this post tomorrow when I have sewn it together.