Blouse #0191 Neck Trim Redrafting, Finishing Touches and VPLL Summary with new Photos



Neck trim adjustment

Having sorted out my sleeves problem I am now considering how to sew the neck trim. 

I have had to redraft the original round neck trim pattern to fit the square neck of the blouse, and make it considerably larger. See the photo on left.

Here an earlier photo I took (right) when I was considering how to do the neck trim placement in proportion with the enlarged pattern using the original pattern rounded collar shape. I used the paper pattern and drew on the buttons. The point of the collar aligns with the bust. I will not be adding the beads at the bottom of the trim. Aside from washing difficulties I don't this it will enhance the blouse for my shape. The point of the horizontal collar will align with the second pleat. The pattern picture shows the arms of the neck trim to be much longer than reality.

I subsequently moved the side dart, that I had added to get a more flattering fit for me, down further under the arm hole so the angle pointed upwards towards the bust rather than horizontal. I also pressed the bust dart material upwards rather than down to reduce the visual effect of the bust size. (That's a trick I learnt recently from my couture sewing books.)

A contrasting fabric with a fine stripe matched the blouse material will be added for dramatic interest. This is the fabric strip I placed and pinned on the sleeve cuff to see how it would look.

I added the two blouse back basques and french seamed all the main visible seams rather than bind all the raw edges. The blouse was now large enough across the shoulders to easily pull on over my head, so I have closed up the left blouse side seam where I was going to insert the zip. I have not gathered the front of the blouse, but used the bias stretch of the trim to pull it in slightly. I have not lined it, as that is not flattering for me, and the cotton material was not transparent, but I have lengthened the blouse as it was far too short.


I covered three old buttons with the trim material and decided to go with one large button at the front trim, in the centre not two as the picture suggested and put buttons on the sleeve cuffs. For a better fit I reduced one pleat so it was 2 pleats either side of the centre, not three.


I plan to wear this blouse for work as it looks clean and smart and is very comfortable to wear. I would still like to make it up with my beautiful dramatic stripe fabric to get the chevron effect at the back as originally intended.


I have learnt so much from making up this pattern, having to read up my new sewing books, follow others blogs for hints and tips and share the problems I had with others.  I look forward to my next pattern.


See my VPLL Checklist for summary of the Ladies Blouse #0191.