VPLL Checklist for Ladies Skirt #0200

VPLL Checklist

1. Pattern Name Ladies Skirt #0200
2. Sewer’s Skill Level: Advanced, Intermediate, Beginner- Beginner
3. Pattern Rating: 1-Not a Fan, 2 – So-So, 3 – Good/Average, 4-Better than Average, 5-I LOVED IT! and why? 3. Good/average, The pattern is simple and quite dramatic with the feature of scallop trim and buttons. The high waist is comfortable and goes well with the Edwardian style short length of their blouses.
4. What skill level would someone need to sew this pattern and why? Beginner for everything except for the bias scallop trim. Trying to get a professional finish for the corners of the scalloped trim  was most fiddly.  This was probably due to me reusing old bias binding and pinning it on for effect for the muslin photo below.
5. Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, but I had to read them over quite a few times as the pattern is so different from modern patterns. If not, what needs to be changed? Advice on the bias trim corner fixing would be good with simple diagrams. The skirt pattern picture showed the scallops on the wrong side.
6. How was the fit/sizing? Did it correspond to what you thought? It printed out accurately to advertised size 34 inch waist.
7. Did you make any pattern alterations? If so, what alterations did you make? Where they fit or design alterations?  I enlarged it to fit a non- Edwardian body shape to fit for a size 22-24. Adding a few centimetres on each of the front panels worked well and spread the enlargement proportionally. The back was more problematic. I had to add a lot more at the back as well as two darts and add more of a design pattern curve to fit my sway back shape. I took the added dart placement and depth from a modern pattern I knew fit me well. I made fit and length alterations for all the  pattern pieces
8. Other notes: I would recommend hand covered buttons in the same material or colour of the trim would look very smart.  I would recommend this pattern to others, but only for slim women if you don't want to redraft the sizing like I did.




Ladies Skirt #0200

Conclusion: This skirt would also look smart made up as a shorter calf length version with Ladies Blouse #0191 that I have also blogged about. I will make this skirt in heavier winter weight wool with contrasting buttons along the scalloped edge.

VPLL Checklist for Ladies Blouse #0191

VPLL Checklist for Ladies Blouse #0191

1. Pattern Name Ladies Blouse #0191
2. Sewer’s Skill Level: Intermediate
3. Pattern Rating: 1-Not a Fan, 2 – So-So, 3 – Good/Average, 4-Better than Average, 5-I LOVED IT! and why?  I thought it was 3 Good/Average as I had to make so many size and fit alterations I relied on the pictures to get the look and the proportions in the pattern were not reflected in the picture. The neck trim vertical side panels were not as long as in the pattern picture.
4. What skill level would someone need to sew this pattern and why? Intermediate, is it was very different to modern patterns. The 6 front pleats, collar neck trim, different sleeve alignment to the side seam lines and adjustments to fit the neck trim to the blouse and lining were complex.
5. Were the instructions easy to follow? If not, what needs to be changed? Explanation of ' Fell stitching' would be good as well as how to mitre the trim corners tidily. I follow diagrams better than words and that would be very helpful if they went alongside the explanation.
6. How was the fit/sizing? Did it correspond to what you thought? No quite different. Adjusting the front blouse to size 22,  E cup and allowing for pleats was difficult and took numerous attempts to get it to right.
7. Did you make any pattern alterations? If so, what alterations did you make? Where they fit or design alterations?
• altered for fit and enlarged all the pattern pieces using a slash technique. 
• kept the design seam lines and added a side bust dart.
• reduced the front blouse pleats to 4 from 6 for a better fit.
• modified the neck design,ommited the beads, enlarged the neck trim for a square neck but kept the overall effect of the collar trim design, and added a trim to the front bottom blouse to gather it slightly. 
• did not line it as the cotton fabric was thick enough.
• because of my blouse neck alterations I did not need to put any zip or other fastenings on the blouse as it was able to be  pulled on over my head.
• made 3 trim fabric covered buttons one large one for the front blouse collar fastening and one on each sleeve to hold the cuffs up.

Blouse #0191 front

Blouse #0191 back

Other notes: This blouse is so unusual but I do like the design especially for the potential for the blouse back 'v' diagonal stripes.  I will make it up again and have another go at getting the trim more even in the corners. The contrasting trim fabric I used for this muslin was too thick for this purpose.

Afternoon Wrap #0291 pattern has arrived

I received my next Vintage Pattern Lending Library pattern from Kimberley today. I was inspired to ask for this pattern by seeing what a fantastic job was make by other VPLL project members on this afternoon wrap.

Afternoon Wrap Feb 4 1912 size 22 inch bust

I will have to enlarge it to a size 22 again, as its so pretty I want to wear it too. The pattern is made up of just two pieces and has tassels attached at the front and a buckle at the back, with contrasting material collar and sleeve trim.  


I will use a muslin first to test out this pattern as I have done for the others. This has saved me so much wasted good material by learning the foibles of these authentic patterns and pattern enlargement to fit me and decide whether it really suits me at all.  I have never sewn mock ups before until I started this project. I was usually in a such hurry to get a finished product to wear.  It is really worth while to spend the extra time doing this for a professional finish.


As its a long Easter weekend this weekend, I will try to finish off the hand sewing of the neck trim for the  Ladies Blouse pattern, finish my Victorian steampunk outfit, and get my husband's Folkwear Victorian waistcoat pattern mostly finished before I embark on this wonderful pattern.

I have been entering the ClubBMV ClubBMV@ClubBMV.com fabulous florals material giveaway competition  just in case the material would in handy for this VPLL project.