Blouse #0191 Neck Trim Redrafting, Finishing Touches and VPLL Summary with new Photos



Neck trim adjustment

Having sorted out my sleeves problem I am now considering how to sew the neck trim. 

I have had to redraft the original round neck trim pattern to fit the square neck of the blouse, and make it considerably larger. See the photo on left.

Here an earlier photo I took (right) when I was considering how to do the neck trim placement in proportion with the enlarged pattern using the original pattern rounded collar shape. I used the paper pattern and drew on the buttons. The point of the collar aligns with the bust. I will not be adding the beads at the bottom of the trim. Aside from washing difficulties I don't this it will enhance the blouse for my shape. The point of the horizontal collar will align with the second pleat. The pattern picture shows the arms of the neck trim to be much longer than reality.

I subsequently moved the side dart, that I had added to get a more flattering fit for me, down further under the arm hole so the angle pointed upwards towards the bust rather than horizontal. I also pressed the bust dart material upwards rather than down to reduce the visual effect of the bust size. (That's a trick I learnt recently from my couture sewing books.)

A contrasting fabric with a fine stripe matched the blouse material will be added for dramatic interest. This is the fabric strip I placed and pinned on the sleeve cuff to see how it would look.

I added the two blouse back basques and french seamed all the main visible seams rather than bind all the raw edges. The blouse was now large enough across the shoulders to easily pull on over my head, so I have closed up the left blouse side seam where I was going to insert the zip. I have not gathered the front of the blouse, but used the bias stretch of the trim to pull it in slightly. I have not lined it, as that is not flattering for me, and the cotton material was not transparent, but I have lengthened the blouse as it was far too short.


I covered three old buttons with the trim material and decided to go with one large button at the front trim, in the centre not two as the picture suggested and put buttons on the sleeve cuffs. For a better fit I reduced one pleat so it was 2 pleats either side of the centre, not three.


I plan to wear this blouse for work as it looks clean and smart and is very comfortable to wear. I would still like to make it up with my beautiful dramatic stripe fabric to get the chevron effect at the back as originally intended.


I have learnt so much from making up this pattern, having to read up my new sewing books, follow others blogs for hints and tips and share the problems I had with others.  I look forward to my next pattern.


See my VPLL Checklist for summary of the Ladies Blouse #0191.

Blouse #1091 Sleeve problems solved

It's strange that problem solving around 3am seems to work for me. I have had a break for 2 weekends from sewing this blouse and this break has worked, I suddenly realised what was wrong.

I hadn't understood the different shape of the sleeve blouse and that the sleeve seam is mean to align with the centre of the forearm when the arm is extended out palm out.  This makes it naturally curve round the elbow- very clever. When I had originally enlarged the pattern, I had followed the original pattern mark on the bodice front without allowing for the fact I had enlarged the pattern pieces a lot. This had the effect of twisting the sleeves so they hung incorrectly.  Eureka!
By more than doubling the sleeve mark distance up towards the shoulder the sleeve magically became the right shape and sits well.

Now I can make up the blouse for me.  Curently I am so happy that the blouse hadn't beaten me after all that I am sitting here wearing the pinned and tacked blouse and it is so comfortable.  I will publish the finished blouse photos after I have made it up properly.

ongoing problems with Blouse #0191

Well, I am rather disappointed today  :-(. I was making final adjustments and checking of the muslin- as you do before cutting out the wonderful perfect fabric I had bought for it. I had the material to make up the blouse all ready.

• I  adjusted the collar trim to align it with the front pleats and placement of the two buttons. Tick.
• I double checked I could get in and out of the blouse with just a side zip under the arm. Tick.
• I inserted two small darts at the neck back to fit a rounded shoulder back. Tick.
• The sleeve fitted well in the shoulder seams, and the bust size adjustment had worked well. Tick.
• The length of the sleeve with the trim was perfect. Tick.
•  It was perfect if I put my hand on my hips in a "pose". Tick. Looking Good!

BUT

• the sleeves did not hang correctly on the material grain.
• when my arms were down and at rest, both the sleeves were twisted and hung strangely at the front of the shoulder. 

I unpicked the sleeves and tried to adjust it while wearing the blouse bodice to alter the sleeve placement - thinking I had to just realign the sleeve seam placement a bit within the armhole.
It's no good- sad... its totally the wrong shape.

So I decided to play with my cat Stilton- the British Blue and look at something else to inspire me to get back up and try again. The NZ Ballet costumes from Bedazzeled exhibition at the Upper Hutt New Dowse Art Gallery pictures I took in Janurary 2012. See below. WOW.

Stilton

The headress to go with it

A NZ Ballet dress for Jean Batten the aviatrix

#0191 Ladies Blouse adjustment final mockup

Second muslin with adjustment

addition of dart took in added fullness

I started all over again in my second attempt using Lee's book instructions. I used the original blouse pattern and slashed it to expand until it fitted my measurements to keep the overall effect of the original design.
I have just pinned and hand tacked for these photos.
See how the enlargement for the bust cup size has worked well. The blouse now fits tidily around the arm hole without pulling or gaping.

I will do this technique for the lining if I choose to use it.  I also enlarged the sleeve, by slashing the shoulder like a fan shape and cutting down the arm, to expand to fit the larger arm hole and upper arm width.  It took much longer that I anticipated to redraft the pattern to fit me well so that I would feel confident in using good material for my next attempt.

The only thing I'd change now is the angle and position of the horizontal bust dart that took in the additional fullness from the front of the blouse. It looked very unflattering without this dart addition.

I decided to put in a side seam zip under the arm as I can get in and out of this version without worrying about a back fastening. I wanted to keep the smooth look of the front and the blouse back effect with the striped fabric that I have chosen to make up the blouse. I did not use the blouse lining in this mock up.

I also made a pattern adjustment for the neck trim to ensure the two buttons are centred by lengthening the front point and overlap. If  the blouse is tucked into the high waisted skirt and covered by a belt as in the illustration,  I can't see the sense of the gathering under the pleat line. Perhaps its to ensure a more even tuck in look.

Overall a very frustrating but eventually satisfying weekend of sewing. The other Vintage Pattern Lending Library blogs for Blouse #0191 were very useful to follow. Thank you fellow sewers!

Blouse #0191

It was nearly lunchtime so I took a break. This is the view from my deck out over Evans Bay and Wellington Airport.


OK, now back to work.

I cut out the neck trim in paper to see how it sat once I enlarged the neckline. The pleats are just pressed to see how far I wanted them to go.  I was not happy how the material pulled along the bust line and the sleeve holes gaped at the front.
Wrong curve shape.

So back to Lee again, page 72 - increasing the bust for when the cup size is larger than a C cup. I slashed the bodice from the centre shoulder through the bust apex down to the waist, as she says. Then horizontally to the side seam.   It changes the angle of the arm hole and the hem line but thats OK, it hangs better and I leant something new. I transferred the new measurements to a new paper pattern and will start again tomorrow.

Blouse #0191 altering the pattern

Marking out the pattern to enlarge

I also decided that since there were going to be substantial alterations  I'd use the roll of economy table cover paper that is stronger than tissue and more flexible than A4 paper.

I started with the lining pattern to get my confidence up. Without lengthening guide divisions I made a guess based on a commercial pattern.

This stage took much longer than I anticipated. I came up with all sort of problems with the combined back and front shape. When I added the length it changed the armhole, I don't like blouses that finish at the waist and get untucked when I lean forward. I was also trying to retain the overall design proportions. It was worth investing time and a good opportunity to lean more from Lee's book and try things out.

Then, I was really in trouble, the armhole seam is not where it normally is and it looks a funny shape. I had to widen the sleeve and also added to the sleeve curve. Oh well, its only time and paper. I pinned it to the dress form to see how bad it was.

Day 1 Blouse #0191 planning

A new stash of bargain fabric

After a busy week at work I was able to look at my recently purchased fabric bargains that I plan to use for our 1912 project.
Prices ranged from NZ$2 to $5 a metre. From soft silk, black lace with silver flecks to woollen suiting material.

I am making a simplicity pattern for a steam punk outfit and tried out the various fabrics for the bodice to see how it would look. The ruffle and buttons are just pinned on.

That got me inspired so I started to work on how to enlarge the #0191 Ladies Blouse to fit me.

I got out my How to Use, Adapt and Design Sewing Patterns by Lee Hollahan, refer to pg 72 Advanced pattern alterations.

#0191 Ladies' Blouse 7 April 1912

#0191 Ladies' Blouse

I received my pattern for this blouse yesterday in my in box and printed it out ready to tape together. It needs to be enlarged somewhat as its only for a 36 inch bust measurement with a 25 inch waist.  I think it would go well with the Ladies Skirt #0200 pattern.

I was lucky enough to find a pop up fabric surplus clearance sale near my work in Wellington that was selling good fabric from $1 to $5 a metre. So I indulged and got 5 metres of lovely black lace for $3 a metre and other blouse and suiting material.

I selected the material for this blouse pattern too -a light transparent bluish grey solid stripe with a transparent strip with an overall washed blue and grey background. Very unusual. I  still need to get the the contrasting material for the trim and bias. The beads will be an interesting feature. Perhaps they should be made removable for washing purposes. I haven't seen any other comments about that in the other 1912 Project blogs so far for this pattern at  http://vpll1912project.org/category/ladies/blouse/e0191_blouse/.

I will read the other 1912 Project blogs carefully before I start to cut and sew this weekend though, as there have been some good work done by others who have paved the way for me.

Ladies' Skirt #0200 mock up complete

Wrong side waist view

You can see how important it is to check both sides and make sure the scallops are cut the same size and shape. Push the bias hard up against the raw edge and fold the points carefully, otherwise it will look uneven as this photo shows.
Much care and patience is needed (no short cuts here) ready for the final hand sewing, once you are sure its right.
Because the bias is a dramatic contrast in my mock up any inprecision will show and detract from the finished skirt.
The buttons will also emphasise your positioning imprecision if the detailing is not carefully done.
I have used thin cheap curtain cotton and recycled 1/4 inch bias binding for this mock up. Note how the bias bows away from the edge of scallop when its pinned. 


I have put together the mock up and put on my dress form below. Although just pinned in place, it shows the general idea and how my back pattern "extentions" have worked with the added darts.
  
Remember how the pattern's artists impression of the illustration is the wrong way round.


I am now thinking of what material to make this in - winter skirt for work to go with the next blouse pattern?  I will have the bias trim in the same material and use the row of buttons as the main feature.

VPLL Checklist

1. Pattern Name Ladies Skirt #0200
2. Sewer’s Skill Level: Advance, Intermediate, Beginner
3. Pattern Rating: 1-Not a Fan, 2 – So-So, 3 – Good/Average, 4-Better than Average, 5-I LOVED IT! and why?
4. What skill level would someone need to sew this pattern and why? Intermediate because of the bias trim addition. Depends on if you decide to machine or hand sew the bias trim. Trying to get it to have a professional finish for the scalloped trim  rather then a triangular shape was most fiddly.
5. Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. If not, what needs to be changed?
6. How was the fit/sizing? Did it correspond to what you thought? I had to make extensive enlargement to fit for a size 22-24.
7. Did you make any pattern alterations? If so, what alterations did you make? Where they fit or design alterations? I made fit and length alterations for all pattern pieces see no 7 above.
8. Other notes: I would recommend hand covered buttons in the same material or colour of the trim would look great.

Ladies' Skirt #0200 continued

Pinning and tacking the scallops in place

The scallops were more of a challenge than I anticipated. Put the wrong sides together. They are finished so they are on the left of the garment not on the right as illustrated on the pattern cover.
The raw edges  must be carefully trimmed again so they are exactly the same size and shape after they have been pressed, pinned and tacked so they don't slip out of position. Press again. Pin the bias binding over the raw edge on the right side so it straddles the raw edges of the scallops.

Pinning the bias in position

Pin, fold on points check both side look right and press. I have kept the tacking in position until all is finished.

Ladies' Skirt #0200 4 Feb 1912

The stormy weather arrived as expected - strong gale force winds and heavy rain. Perfect weather for sewing. On Saturday morning we braved the weather to request a refund for the $399 Project  Runway dress form I had paid for and ordered in early January from Spotlight. Then off to Kilbernie shops to buy a second hand Singer dress form for $199 - original box and instructions intact. The friendly staff gave me some tips on how to get the form to echo my form- so to speak. She said put an old bra on it that still fits and stuff the cups with dacron.  The old pillow dacron worked well for padding out the hips and waist to my measurements. And I stilll had $200 left!

Redrafting the Back.

Now I could really start work on the skirt. Double checking the measurements on the 34 inch waist paper pattern the  I found that  adding a few centimeters on each of the front panels worked well and spread the enlargement proportionally. The back was more problematic. You can see below how much I had to add as well as a dart and more of a curve to fit my shape. The dart placement and depth was taken from a modern pattern I knew that did fit me well.

I had made sure I had extra material to play around with and I used the french curve to help me pin out the right shape to test on my new dress form before I tacked it.

Adjusting to fit

My first two patterns from the Vintage Pattern Lending Library arrived in my inbox this week the Challenge Slip and  the Ladies Skirt. The patterns come with transcribed and updated instructions based on the original instructions.  I have decided to start on the skirt pattern first and can't wait to embark on the lovely blouse pattern. But one thing at a time.

The #0200 Ladies' Skirt finally arrived in my inbox a few days ago.  I printed out the pattern on A4 paper and taped it together in preparation for the size adjustments. The 34 inch waist is a little too trim for me!

I will mark notches and other indicated lines using my mother's Simplicity tracing paper (price 50 cents) and her old wooden handled marking wheel. These both date from the 1970's!

I treated myself to a cutting board, a large roll of some cheap blue cotton to make mock ups and ordered a dress form. Unfortunately the form hasn't arrived yet despite being ordered nearly 2 months ago. 

I am considering making a shorter version of this skirt as I think I could quite happily wear it at work.  We will see how the mock up goes first though. Looking forward to starting on the blouse patternto go with the skirt but I must be patient and finish this skirt first. Sewing is booked for this weekend for two full days. The start of the wet autumn weather helps keep me inside. So I will blog some more with photos of my progress after the weekend.