#0191 Ladies Blouse adjustment final mockup

Second muslin with adjustment

addition of dart took in added fullness

I started all over again in my second attempt using Lee's book instructions. I used the original blouse pattern and slashed it to expand until it fitted my measurements to keep the overall effect of the original design.
I have just pinned and hand tacked for these photos.
See how the enlargement for the bust cup size has worked well. The blouse now fits tidily around the arm hole without pulling or gaping.

I will do this technique for the lining if I choose to use it.  I also enlarged the sleeve, by slashing the shoulder like a fan shape and cutting down the arm, to expand to fit the larger arm hole and upper arm width.  It took much longer that I anticipated to redraft the pattern to fit me well so that I would feel confident in using good material for my next attempt.

The only thing I'd change now is the angle and position of the horizontal bust dart that took in the additional fullness from the front of the blouse. It looked very unflattering without this dart addition.

I decided to put in a side seam zip under the arm as I can get in and out of this version without worrying about a back fastening. I wanted to keep the smooth look of the front and the blouse back effect with the striped fabric that I have chosen to make up the blouse. I did not use the blouse lining in this mock up.

I also made a pattern adjustment for the neck trim to ensure the two buttons are centred by lengthening the front point and overlap. If  the blouse is tucked into the high waisted skirt and covered by a belt as in the illustration,  I can't see the sense of the gathering under the pleat line. Perhaps its to ensure a more even tuck in look.

Overall a very frustrating but eventually satisfying weekend of sewing. The other Vintage Pattern Lending Library blogs for Blouse #0191 were very useful to follow. Thank you fellow sewers!