Research, upskilling and costume courses

My blog has  been very quiet lately as I have been improving my knowledge and sewing skills lately and attending The Dreamstress blogger Leimomi Oakes  classes at Made on Marion in in Wellington. I will blog about those later when I have the pictures and progress sorted.

The VPLL pattern releases have slowed and their preview patterns in Facebook are the next ones I want to sew. But until then I am researching and reading up on:

Clare Shaeffers Fabric Sewing Guide. 2nd Edition. I needed to understand how to select, manage sewing and more difficult fabrics and identify inappropriate fabrics to sew for the various costume periods.

Nancy Bednar & JoAnn Pugh- Gannon Encycolopaedia of Sewing Machine Techniques. Facinating. It needs a blog a page as I work thought the instructions on how to do  amazing techniques. If only I had the time. Very useful so far.

Alison Smith The Sewing Book Tyler. There is only so much on u tube. Diagrams and instructions are very clear. I keep dipping into it.
 
Gail Brown Pati Palmer Sewing with Sergers. I have had a overlocker / serger for years and only done the basics. How to get more out of the machine you own.  Still playing with various techniques.

Costumes all comming together 1912 Titanic Dinner



 

The perfect Victorian Gentleman accompanying me at the Wellesley 'Wellington on a Plate' Titanic dinner.  The pocket watch is his grandfather's, made of gun metal, the cane (silver tipped) and the glasses are authentic.

Black beaded dress over my mother-in-law's wedding dress with the VPLL afternoon wrap

Afternoon wrap VPLL




Hubby and I



Oh, and of course the excellent food and company:

pudding



a vegetable course



A Gentleman's Outfit

I have been a little busy lately making  (and remaking) costumes for my husband and also for a comedy theatre production at the Gryphon theatre 'Immaculate'- 4 Greek robes for the Greek Chorus. No pictures as they were very plain and black.

This has meant the 1912 Project sewing had stopped for a while.  The sewing experience has been frustrating but I have learnt new things about fitting mens' patterns correctly, material drape, avoiding cheap material and  interfacing.

Folkwear Victorian Gentleman's Waistcoat 222

I had to alter the original pattern a lot and I will never use cheap Chinese brocade and interfacing again. This is my second attempt. The first lot of material was unpicked, remade then discarded. The manikin is home made of black duct tape with a white tape marking the centre line.

Neue Mode Stil Gentleman's morning suit jacket 10225.

This fabric is metallic, quilted and very stiff. I must be a glutton for punishment in using unsuitable fabric. I unpicked the quilting on the fabric to get a contrast with the collar lapels, as suggested my one of my costume buddies. I had to make this collar twice too and throw out the cheap interfacing.  I went for advice to the Fabric Warehouse and bought proper suiting interfacing.  The pattern also needed a lot of adjustment to get it to fit right. It does look good on though.- Now to finish my 1912 evening dress.

My Victorian Gentleman's Waistcoat Disaster

I have been making a Gentleman's Victorian Waistcoat pattern from a Folkwear pattern for my husband for our wedding anniversary present. I have made such a disaster out of it so far. 

In the end I put the fraying and unpicked original Chinese satin material pieces aside of rampant snarling back threaded dragons and started again. I had to buy more Chinese satin, different lining and iron on interfacing. I had used too thick lining, overstretched the satin when pressing it with too hot an iron, and cut the pattern in the wrong size even though I had carefully checked and measured it out.

So the following week, with husband in tow, we went to get more of the material he had specially picked out . Of course they had sold out and no they weren't expected any more. So we picked different pattern bright red with black cherry blossoms.

Sigh. Patience of a saint- and the new larger waistcoat version 2 that I had pinned, tacked and muslined first, still didn't fit right on him but did on the second duct tape manikin we made that weekend. Pooh. Its the neck fitting  that is all wrong. So I have unpicked it across the back and collar to rethink about what went wrong. The muslin had sat right when I checked it out.

I get my newly overhauled sewing machine back to inspire me to try again next Tuesday. Third time lucky. I am determined to get it right sitting well and looking professional on him!

Then I will share the finished photos with you. All I have to show for many hours of work is a  pile of unpicked, frayed material and a half finished waistcoat divided into two also unpicked.

I need a new unpicker now as my one has gone blunt from overuse!

Other sewing projects

Its been quite  a while since I sewed a 1912 Project pattern. I have though, been very busy sewing and learning about how to get more use out of my sewing machine and reading sewing technique books.  And developing a manic determination to get things right.

Sewing Books

The latest books I have are The Sewing Machine Accessory Bible by Wendy Gardiner and Lorna Knight. This book prompted me tocontact my friend that I have given my old Bernina to that had odd sewing feet attachments I never did learn what they were for. She said she would never use them so I asked for them back. I also invested in an invisible zip attachment.

Then my sewing machine lost its setting for automatic buttonholes and I took it to the shop for a service. So I haven't had time to practice with the new toys:tailors tacking foot, embroidery foot, invisible zipper foot, pin tuck foot and hemmer foot.

The Complete Photo Guide to Fitting by Sarah Veblen is a book I like a lot because it has 650 photos of how clothes don't fit then shows you the adjustments to make to make it fit better.

I was then inspired to make my own duct tape manikin form of my husband so I can stick pins into it without it complaining.   I stuffed it with newspaper, stiffened it with gap filling foam and he put it on a frame with lockable wheels. I followed the instructions via a  u-tube video. The foam over expanded and changed his shape humpback with one side of his chest bigger than the other.

I had to disassemble it, cover him in recycled duct tape and try again. Not before I had to clean off the sticky adhesive from around the edges of my kitchen bench that I had attached the end of the  recycled strips of duct tape on to, so I could use then again.

How to make Sewing Patterns by Donald McCunn- I haven't got into this one  much yet but I hope that it will help me understand the patterns better when I adjust them and they don't sit right.


 4 Greek Robes for 'Immacculate' a prodcuton by BackYard Theatre

I finished these in a long weekend for the cast of four. I make up my own standard pattern using their measurements and they went together well. The material was from the Fabric Warehouse a black stretch material with a wide satin band stripe, it had to be full length and quite thick to cover their actors own costumes.

The feedback I got from rehearsals was 'Awesome!'. Another person has made the masks to go with them and the opeing night is in July. Hopefuly I will get photos then too.

VPLL Checklist for Ladies Afternoon Wrap #0291

1. Pattern Name Ladies Afternoon Wrap #0291
2. Sewer’s Skill Level: Advanced, Intermediate, Beginner- Beginner
3. Pattern Rating: 1-Not a Fan, 2 – So-So, 3 – Good/Average, 4-Better than Average, 5-I LOVED IT! and why? 3. Good/average, The pattern is simple and quite dramatic with the feature of the four tassels. The wrap is comfortable and sits well on the shoulders and arms held in place by the front fastening and belt and weight of the sleeve tassells.
4. What skill level would someone need to sew this pattern and why? Beginner for plain fabrics if the wrap is not lined. Trying to get a professional finish for the wrap was most fiddly for the satin and silk cotton fabric I selected and to get the collar to sit evenly and correctly.  This was probably due to using incorrect serger tension that I had used to control the fraying fabric.  I needed to use my sewing machine walking foot earlier. Hand finishing was minimal but careful pressing was very important.
5. Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, but it did assume you knew what to do to ensure the collar points and front edge was aligned at the front seam.  I chose to line the wrap and followed the instructions for lining. If not, what needs to be changed? Advice on the collar fixing would be good with simple diagrams and marks on the front piece where  the collar is to align with would be good to ensure each collar point is even. The pattern layout picture showed 2 pieces cut out on the same fabric placement, that is incorrect.  I joined all the lining right sides together with the wrap fabric after fixing the collar first. I sewed the seams from the back neck down either side separately to even up the seam sewing line due to the  stretch of my misbehaving fabric. I left the bottom back open to minimise hand sewing and ensure all final checking was done before competing the last seam.
6. How was the fit/sizing? Did it correspond to what you thought? It printed out accurately to advertised size 34 inch waist.  The bust and shoulder darts did not need adjustment and fitted nicely. The pattern made up unlike the pattern diagram that shows the sleeve length well above the elbow.
7. Did you make any pattern alterations? If so, what alterations did you make? Where they fit or design alterations? I enlarged it to fit a non- Edwardian body shape to fit for a size 44 inch bust. Adding a few centimetres on each of the front panels worked well and spread the enlargement proportionally but I should have added more for an overlapping front.  I altered the fastening with two buttons with a ribbon loop.I made a belt that was wide enough to cover the button fasteneing and gatther in the waist a little, if I chose to wear it that way too. I lengthened the sleeves and I did not put in the waist gathers. I did not overlay the sleeve trim as the instructions said, as my trim fabric was transparent and showed the pattern through. I would have had to line the sleeve trim as well otherwise making it too thick to drape nicely. So I cut four sleeve trim bias strips and sewed two pairs together then added them on the end of each sleeve. This effectively lengthened the sleeves that then sat just past the elbows. I positioned each tassel along the middle seam line.
8. Other notes: I would recommend the best kinds of fabric to use. I would recommend this pattern to others as it feels wonderful to wear and looks exotic.  The belt  material I used was a wide indian bead embroidered trim that I lined with the same fabric as the wrap. It covers the two front buttons if I choose to wear it that way.

Conclusion: I will make this wrap again in a different fabric, it is very flattering and feels elegant to wear.

 

Final Blog Afternon Wrap #0291

The techinical difficulties of using very slippery and stretchy fabric took a lot longer to sort out after what I thought was good progress a few weekends ago. I was not satisfied with the collar and recut it using the lining fabric as the collar lining, as the fabric I chose- (a fine cotton silk blend) was far to floppy, very strechy, easily creased and didn't sit correctly when sewed to the satin.  The material needed a rounded needle too - I only had a sharp pointed set of needles.

The wrap without the belt

I ended up unpicking most of the work this weekend that  I had done and resewing it using a walking foot that gave a more even stitch by moving the fabric evenly under the foot.  I tried using it before on this wrap but it caught on the sile fabric, making uneven pulling marks, so I didn't use it.  Once I used the lining on the recut collar though, I could sew along the neckline with the walking foot without it catching the fabric.  Otherwise I would have to revert to sewing with tissue over the top of the fabric.

I still have problems with the seams stitch pulling along the seams under the arms. It sits well once it is ironed, but then contracts back again to look rumpled. When I wear it it is not so noticable. Part of the problem is my overlocker tention was incorrect for this fabric and tended to have a slight gather depending on the direction in which trhe fabri seam was sewn.

The white tassels using two large buttons

The white tassels were used to pick up a white fleck in the fabric pattern but looked very boring jyut hanging there. I used two white and gold buttons threaded through each of the 4 tassels cords placing the buttons back to back for additional interest.

Wrap fastening using two buttons and a ribbon

As I hadn't made the front quite wide enough to overlap as per the wrap pattern, I elected to compromise and have two orange and gold buttons placed under the each collar piece that were joined by a yellow ribbon that hooked over the buttion to hold the wrap together.

I have made a belt to go with this as another wearing option using the indian orange beaded border that I also lined with yellow lining same as the wrap.

Ladies Afternoon Wrap # 0291

After a few weeks break I can now start sewing on the VPLL 1912 Project again.

HINT: I now put all my VPLL patterns resealable A4 plastic bags, including my enlarged patten so I can see the pattern image at a glace, I have 2 pattern sizes available to me and all the instructions are kept neatly together

I selected some beautiful fabric and decided to be bold in the fabric colour and beaded trim for the belt and white contrasting tassels. I chose plain gold coloured satin lining.

The next step was to enlarge the 32 inch  pattern to fit a 44 inch with lengthened "sleeves", back width and waist to neck measurement.

I used a slash the paper pattern method and pinned the extra paper between the joins as you can see how it looks on the body form. 

I worked out where to cut the pattern for enlargement so it would minimise alterations for the collar other than length, using commercial patterns as a guide as to whether to alter the pattern. The final paper pattern was checked to fit, and adjusted against the body form adding a belt to see if the waist and slashes aligned.  

I also checked it with my trusty aqua curtain lining fabric by cutting out just one side only to see how it hung for length. I will then use this as my new  paper pattern template by transferring the final enlarged shape to tissue paper. 

WARNING: The #0291 pattern cut out guide has an error. The two front back pieces would cut out so two pieces would be the same side so watch out! They need to be cut out as be mirror images so that the right side of the material is the same on left and right sides


By enlarging the one 'front & back' piece so much, it would then not fit on the lining fabric in one piece, following the grain line guide. Knowing that changing the grainline without consideration of how the lining fabric would fall, I decided to cheat by cutting the shape separately adding the extra fabric on the back sleeve point see left -I'm sure no one will notice.










So here are the pieces all cut out and over locked (serged) but not sewn to show how it will look. The main fabric is actually inside out as I am checking how the main fabric and lining behaves when hung overnight incase they stretch differently.

The contrasting collar is very thin silk cotton and the main fabric is polyester satin. So I have some sewing stretch problems and the fabric is very slippery to sew.

I will add to this post tomorrow when I have sewn it together.

VPLL Checklist for Ladies Skirt #0200

VPLL Checklist

1. Pattern Name Ladies Skirt #0200
2. Sewer’s Skill Level: Advanced, Intermediate, Beginner- Beginner
3. Pattern Rating: 1-Not a Fan, 2 – So-So, 3 – Good/Average, 4-Better than Average, 5-I LOVED IT! and why? 3. Good/average, The pattern is simple and quite dramatic with the feature of scallop trim and buttons. The high waist is comfortable and goes well with the Edwardian style short length of their blouses.
4. What skill level would someone need to sew this pattern and why? Beginner for everything except for the bias scallop trim. Trying to get a professional finish for the corners of the scalloped trim  was most fiddly.  This was probably due to me reusing old bias binding and pinning it on for effect for the muslin photo below.
5. Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, but I had to read them over quite a few times as the pattern is so different from modern patterns. If not, what needs to be changed? Advice on the bias trim corner fixing would be good with simple diagrams. The skirt pattern picture showed the scallops on the wrong side.
6. How was the fit/sizing? Did it correspond to what you thought? It printed out accurately to advertised size 34 inch waist.
7. Did you make any pattern alterations? If so, what alterations did you make? Where they fit or design alterations?  I enlarged it to fit a non- Edwardian body shape to fit for a size 22-24. Adding a few centimetres on each of the front panels worked well and spread the enlargement proportionally. The back was more problematic. I had to add a lot more at the back as well as two darts and add more of a design pattern curve to fit my sway back shape. I took the added dart placement and depth from a modern pattern I knew fit me well. I made fit and length alterations for all the  pattern pieces
8. Other notes: I would recommend hand covered buttons in the same material or colour of the trim would look very smart.  I would recommend this pattern to others, but only for slim women if you don't want to redraft the sizing like I did.




Ladies Skirt #0200

Conclusion: This skirt would also look smart made up as a shorter calf length version with Ladies Blouse #0191 that I have also blogged about. I will make this skirt in heavier winter weight wool with contrasting buttons along the scalloped edge.

VPLL Checklist for Ladies Blouse #0191

VPLL Checklist for Ladies Blouse #0191

1. Pattern Name Ladies Blouse #0191
2. Sewer’s Skill Level: Intermediate
3. Pattern Rating: 1-Not a Fan, 2 – So-So, 3 – Good/Average, 4-Better than Average, 5-I LOVED IT! and why?  I thought it was 3 Good/Average as I had to make so many size and fit alterations I relied on the pictures to get the look and the proportions in the pattern were not reflected in the picture. The neck trim vertical side panels were not as long as in the pattern picture.
4. What skill level would someone need to sew this pattern and why? Intermediate, is it was very different to modern patterns. The 6 front pleats, collar neck trim, different sleeve alignment to the side seam lines and adjustments to fit the neck trim to the blouse and lining were complex.
5. Were the instructions easy to follow? If not, what needs to be changed? Explanation of ' Fell stitching' would be good as well as how to mitre the trim corners tidily. I follow diagrams better than words and that would be very helpful if they went alongside the explanation.
6. How was the fit/sizing? Did it correspond to what you thought? No quite different. Adjusting the front blouse to size 22,  E cup and allowing for pleats was difficult and took numerous attempts to get it to right.
7. Did you make any pattern alterations? If so, what alterations did you make? Where they fit or design alterations?
• altered for fit and enlarged all the pattern pieces using a slash technique. 
• kept the design seam lines and added a side bust dart.
• reduced the front blouse pleats to 4 from 6 for a better fit.
• modified the neck design,ommited the beads, enlarged the neck trim for a square neck but kept the overall effect of the collar trim design, and added a trim to the front bottom blouse to gather it slightly. 
• did not line it as the cotton fabric was thick enough.
• because of my blouse neck alterations I did not need to put any zip or other fastenings on the blouse as it was able to be  pulled on over my head.
• made 3 trim fabric covered buttons one large one for the front blouse collar fastening and one on each sleeve to hold the cuffs up.

Blouse #0191 front

Blouse #0191 back

Other notes: This blouse is so unusual but I do like the design especially for the potential for the blouse back 'v' diagonal stripes.  I will make it up again and have another go at getting the trim more even in the corners. The contrasting trim fabric I used for this muslin was too thick for this purpose.

Afternoon Wrap #0291 pattern has arrived

I received my next Vintage Pattern Lending Library pattern from Kimberley today. I was inspired to ask for this pattern by seeing what a fantastic job was make by other VPLL project members on this afternoon wrap.

Afternoon Wrap Feb 4 1912 size 22 inch bust

I will have to enlarge it to a size 22 again, as its so pretty I want to wear it too. The pattern is made up of just two pieces and has tassels attached at the front and a buckle at the back, with contrasting material collar and sleeve trim.  


I will use a muslin first to test out this pattern as I have done for the others. This has saved me so much wasted good material by learning the foibles of these authentic patterns and pattern enlargement to fit me and decide whether it really suits me at all.  I have never sewn mock ups before until I started this project. I was usually in a such hurry to get a finished product to wear.  It is really worth while to spend the extra time doing this for a professional finish.


As its a long Easter weekend this weekend, I will try to finish off the hand sewing of the neck trim for the  Ladies Blouse pattern, finish my Victorian steampunk outfit, and get my husband's Folkwear Victorian waistcoat pattern mostly finished before I embark on this wonderful pattern.

I have been entering the ClubBMV ClubBMV@ClubBMV.com fabulous florals material giveaway competition  just in case the material would in handy for this VPLL project.

Blouse #0191 Neck Trim Redrafting, Finishing Touches and VPLL Summary with new Photos



Neck trim adjustment

Having sorted out my sleeves problem I am now considering how to sew the neck trim. 

I have had to redraft the original round neck trim pattern to fit the square neck of the blouse, and make it considerably larger. See the photo on left.

Here an earlier photo I took (right) when I was considering how to do the neck trim placement in proportion with the enlarged pattern using the original pattern rounded collar shape. I used the paper pattern and drew on the buttons. The point of the collar aligns with the bust. I will not be adding the beads at the bottom of the trim. Aside from washing difficulties I don't this it will enhance the blouse for my shape. The point of the horizontal collar will align with the second pleat. The pattern picture shows the arms of the neck trim to be much longer than reality.

I subsequently moved the side dart, that I had added to get a more flattering fit for me, down further under the arm hole so the angle pointed upwards towards the bust rather than horizontal. I also pressed the bust dart material upwards rather than down to reduce the visual effect of the bust size. (That's a trick I learnt recently from my couture sewing books.)

A contrasting fabric with a fine stripe matched the blouse material will be added for dramatic interest. This is the fabric strip I placed and pinned on the sleeve cuff to see how it would look.

I added the two blouse back basques and french seamed all the main visible seams rather than bind all the raw edges. The blouse was now large enough across the shoulders to easily pull on over my head, so I have closed up the left blouse side seam where I was going to insert the zip. I have not gathered the front of the blouse, but used the bias stretch of the trim to pull it in slightly. I have not lined it, as that is not flattering for me, and the cotton material was not transparent, but I have lengthened the blouse as it was far too short.


I covered three old buttons with the trim material and decided to go with one large button at the front trim, in the centre not two as the picture suggested and put buttons on the sleeve cuffs. For a better fit I reduced one pleat so it was 2 pleats either side of the centre, not three.


I plan to wear this blouse for work as it looks clean and smart and is very comfortable to wear. I would still like to make it up with my beautiful dramatic stripe fabric to get the chevron effect at the back as originally intended.


I have learnt so much from making up this pattern, having to read up my new sewing books, follow others blogs for hints and tips and share the problems I had with others.  I look forward to my next pattern.


See my VPLL Checklist for summary of the Ladies Blouse #0191.

Blouse #1091 Sleeve problems solved

It's strange that problem solving around 3am seems to work for me. I have had a break for 2 weekends from sewing this blouse and this break has worked, I suddenly realised what was wrong.

I hadn't understood the different shape of the sleeve blouse and that the sleeve seam is mean to align with the centre of the forearm when the arm is extended out palm out.  This makes it naturally curve round the elbow- very clever. When I had originally enlarged the pattern, I had followed the original pattern mark on the bodice front without allowing for the fact I had enlarged the pattern pieces a lot. This had the effect of twisting the sleeves so they hung incorrectly.  Eureka!
By more than doubling the sleeve mark distance up towards the shoulder the sleeve magically became the right shape and sits well.

Now I can make up the blouse for me.  Curently I am so happy that the blouse hadn't beaten me after all that I am sitting here wearing the pinned and tacked blouse and it is so comfortable.  I will publish the finished blouse photos after I have made it up properly.

ongoing problems with Blouse #0191

Well, I am rather disappointed today  :-(. I was making final adjustments and checking of the muslin- as you do before cutting out the wonderful perfect fabric I had bought for it. I had the material to make up the blouse all ready.

• I  adjusted the collar trim to align it with the front pleats and placement of the two buttons. Tick.
• I double checked I could get in and out of the blouse with just a side zip under the arm. Tick.
• I inserted two small darts at the neck back to fit a rounded shoulder back. Tick.
• The sleeve fitted well in the shoulder seams, and the bust size adjustment had worked well. Tick.
• The length of the sleeve with the trim was perfect. Tick.
•  It was perfect if I put my hand on my hips in a "pose". Tick. Looking Good!

BUT

• the sleeves did not hang correctly on the material grain.
• when my arms were down and at rest, both the sleeves were twisted and hung strangely at the front of the shoulder. 

I unpicked the sleeves and tried to adjust it while wearing the blouse bodice to alter the sleeve placement - thinking I had to just realign the sleeve seam placement a bit within the armhole.
It's no good- sad... its totally the wrong shape.

So I decided to play with my cat Stilton- the British Blue and look at something else to inspire me to get back up and try again. The NZ Ballet costumes from Bedazzeled exhibition at the Upper Hutt New Dowse Art Gallery pictures I took in Janurary 2012. See below. WOW.

Stilton

The headress to go with it

A NZ Ballet dress for Jean Batten the aviatrix

#0191 Ladies Blouse adjustment final mockup

Second muslin with adjustment

addition of dart took in added fullness

I started all over again in my second attempt using Lee's book instructions. I used the original blouse pattern and slashed it to expand until it fitted my measurements to keep the overall effect of the original design.
I have just pinned and hand tacked for these photos.
See how the enlargement for the bust cup size has worked well. The blouse now fits tidily around the arm hole without pulling or gaping.

I will do this technique for the lining if I choose to use it.  I also enlarged the sleeve, by slashing the shoulder like a fan shape and cutting down the arm, to expand to fit the larger arm hole and upper arm width.  It took much longer that I anticipated to redraft the pattern to fit me well so that I would feel confident in using good material for my next attempt.

The only thing I'd change now is the angle and position of the horizontal bust dart that took in the additional fullness from the front of the blouse. It looked very unflattering without this dart addition.

I decided to put in a side seam zip under the arm as I can get in and out of this version without worrying about a back fastening. I wanted to keep the smooth look of the front and the blouse back effect with the striped fabric that I have chosen to make up the blouse. I did not use the blouse lining in this mock up.

I also made a pattern adjustment for the neck trim to ensure the two buttons are centred by lengthening the front point and overlap. If  the blouse is tucked into the high waisted skirt and covered by a belt as in the illustration,  I can't see the sense of the gathering under the pleat line. Perhaps its to ensure a more even tuck in look.

Overall a very frustrating but eventually satisfying weekend of sewing. The other Vintage Pattern Lending Library blogs for Blouse #0191 were very useful to follow. Thank you fellow sewers!

Blouse #0191

It was nearly lunchtime so I took a break. This is the view from my deck out over Evans Bay and Wellington Airport.


OK, now back to work.

I cut out the neck trim in paper to see how it sat once I enlarged the neckline. The pleats are just pressed to see how far I wanted them to go.  I was not happy how the material pulled along the bust line and the sleeve holes gaped at the front.
Wrong curve shape.

So back to Lee again, page 72 - increasing the bust for when the cup size is larger than a C cup. I slashed the bodice from the centre shoulder through the bust apex down to the waist, as she says. Then horizontally to the side seam.   It changes the angle of the arm hole and the hem line but thats OK, it hangs better and I leant something new. I transferred the new measurements to a new paper pattern and will start again tomorrow.

Blouse #0191 altering the pattern

Marking out the pattern to enlarge

I also decided that since there were going to be substantial alterations  I'd use the roll of economy table cover paper that is stronger than tissue and more flexible than A4 paper.

I started with the lining pattern to get my confidence up. Without lengthening guide divisions I made a guess based on a commercial pattern.

This stage took much longer than I anticipated. I came up with all sort of problems with the combined back and front shape. When I added the length it changed the armhole, I don't like blouses that finish at the waist and get untucked when I lean forward. I was also trying to retain the overall design proportions. It was worth investing time and a good opportunity to lean more from Lee's book and try things out.

Then, I was really in trouble, the armhole seam is not where it normally is and it looks a funny shape. I had to widen the sleeve and also added to the sleeve curve. Oh well, its only time and paper. I pinned it to the dress form to see how bad it was.

Day 1 Blouse #0191 planning

A new stash of bargain fabric

After a busy week at work I was able to look at my recently purchased fabric bargains that I plan to use for our 1912 project.
Prices ranged from NZ$2 to $5 a metre. From soft silk, black lace with silver flecks to woollen suiting material.

I am making a simplicity pattern for a steam punk outfit and tried out the various fabrics for the bodice to see how it would look. The ruffle and buttons are just pinned on.

That got me inspired so I started to work on how to enlarge the #0191 Ladies Blouse to fit me.

I got out my How to Use, Adapt and Design Sewing Patterns by Lee Hollahan, refer to pg 72 Advanced pattern alterations.