VPLL Checklist for Ladies Blouse #0191

VPLL Checklist for Ladies Blouse #0191

1. Pattern Name Ladies Blouse #0191
2. Sewer’s Skill Level: Intermediate
3. Pattern Rating: 1-Not a Fan, 2 – So-So, 3 – Good/Average, 4-Better than Average, 5-I LOVED IT! and why?  I thought it was 3 Good/Average as I had to make so many size and fit alterations I relied on the pictures to get the look and the proportions in the pattern were not reflected in the picture. The neck trim vertical side panels were not as long as in the pattern picture.
4. What skill level would someone need to sew this pattern and why? Intermediate, is it was very different to modern patterns. The 6 front pleats, collar neck trim, different sleeve alignment to the side seam lines and adjustments to fit the neck trim to the blouse and lining were complex.
5. Were the instructions easy to follow? If not, what needs to be changed? Explanation of ' Fell stitching' would be good as well as how to mitre the trim corners tidily. I follow diagrams better than words and that would be very helpful if they went alongside the explanation.
6. How was the fit/sizing? Did it correspond to what you thought? No quite different. Adjusting the front blouse to size 22,  E cup and allowing for pleats was difficult and took numerous attempts to get it to right.
7. Did you make any pattern alterations? If so, what alterations did you make? Where they fit or design alterations?
• altered for fit and enlarged all the pattern pieces using a slash technique. 
• kept the design seam lines and added a side bust dart.
• reduced the front blouse pleats to 4 from 6 for a better fit.
• modified the neck design,ommited the beads, enlarged the neck trim for a square neck but kept the overall effect of the collar trim design, and added a trim to the front bottom blouse to gather it slightly. 
• did not line it as the cotton fabric was thick enough.
• because of my blouse neck alterations I did not need to put any zip or other fastenings on the blouse as it was able to be  pulled on over my head.
• made 3 trim fabric covered buttons one large one for the front blouse collar fastening and one on each sleeve to hold the cuffs up.

Blouse #0191 front

Blouse #0191 back

Other notes: This blouse is so unusual but I do like the design especially for the potential for the blouse back 'v' diagonal stripes.  I will make it up again and have another go at getting the trim more even in the corners. The contrasting trim fabric I used for this muslin was too thick for this purpose.